Wine with Crabs

It has become a position of national pride to proffer a wine that goes with crab, there being considerable success with gewurztraminers and rieslings with a certain degree of residual sugar, richer Champagne Rose’, more robust still rose wines, for example from the Barossa Valley, Spain or South of France, and even fruiter new world pinot noirs served with a chill.

In this dry-fried dish, the best Indian Tellicherry black pepper corns, coriander seeds and cardamom, soy and oyster sauce meet cracked hard-shell crab claws and legs in a searing hot wok, infusing a smokiness and spiciness – it’s sort of like eating a BBQ porterhouse pepper steak, only the meat is white.

As for the black pepper version, red wines with inherent spiciness and pronounced black pepper go brilliantly, namely the red grape syrah or shiraz, and particularly so if grown in cool-climate regions which lends a crunchiness to the fruit enhanced by steely acidity with fine-grained, earthy, flavored tannins – elegant in framework, yet with an underlying power.

from the Northern Rhone, France, Paul Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert, Maison Chapoutier Hermitage La Sizeranne

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